Thursday, November 17, 2011
Here is what I am currently struggling with - sheer, silk organza (chiffon?) with slight texture to it. I needed a long sleeved black blouse for a chorus performance. With no luck finding one RTW, I decided to make one, and use this as a learning experience for sewing with such fine, slippery fabric. I have actually avoided it as long as I've been sewing (30+ years, off and on). Until now, that is.
Sewing with this is painstaking. I bought silk thread based on some googling which suggested that poly thread is too thick and heavy, so I am using that. I also read a tip that, to keep the seams from puckering, you sew a strip of tissue together with and under the fabric being sewn. This makes a noticeable difference - without the tissue, the seam sort of puckers, but more sort of twists. The tissue stops that, but it is extremely slow work - hard to place on the fabric, hard to keep all the layers straight, somewhat tedious to remove... just a slow process.
Also, I am tinkering with fit, which I am usually too much in a rush to do. After trying on the shell I saw that the buck was puffing out above the rear darts, so, I basted the back seam line (twice now) to get the right fit, and get it to lie flat. I noticed that the shoulders are far too wide, so those are pinned back for trimming before the sleeves are attached.
Where possible, I have used French seams in this garment. Again, this is painstaking with this fabric and especially with the tissue, but I love the look and professional appearance... even if it's only on the inside. Again, a technique that is new for me. A good one to have learned, I think.
Posted by Wendy at 2:40 PM