Thursday, November 17, 2011

Here is what I am currently struggling with - sheer, silk organza (chiffon?) with slight texture to it.  I needed a long sleeved black blouse for a chorus performance.  With no luck finding one RTW, I decided to make one, and use this as a learning experience for sewing with such fine, slippery fabric.  I have actually avoided it as long as I've been sewing (30+ years, off and on).  Until now, that is. 

Sewing with this is painstaking.  I bought silk thread based on some googling which suggested that poly thread is too thick and heavy, so I am using that. I also read a tip that, to keep the seams from puckering, you sew a strip of tissue together with and under the fabric being sewn.  This makes a noticeable difference - without the tissue, the seam sort of puckers, but more sort of twists.  The tissue stops that, but it is extremely slow work - hard to place on the fabric, hard to keep all the layers straight, somewhat tedious to  remove... just a slow process.

Also, I am tinkering with fit, which I am usually too much in a rush to do.  After trying on the shell I saw that the buck was puffing out above the rear darts, so, I basted the back seam line (twice now) to get the right fit, and get it to lie flat.  I noticed that the shoulders are far too wide, so those are pinned back for trimming before the sleeves are attached. 

Where possible, I have used French seams in this garment.  Again, this is painstaking with this fabric and especially with the tissue, but I love the look and professional appearance... even if it's only on the inside.  Again, a technique that is new for me.  A good one to have learned, I think. 

1 comment:

  1. I replied to your question about patternmaking classes on my blog, but thought you may miss it so am pasting it here too:

    I definitely recommend the pattern-making classes at FIT. I have heard from students who also took tailoring, however, that the guy who teaches it is pretty cantankerous. Actually, that may be putting it too nicely. Another possible option for an advanced sewer would be Maison Sapho on the Upper West Side. I heard from one sewer who loved her classes there. Here's the website: